Friday, 29 March 2013

Even the stars are different here

“Why, sometimes I've believed as many as six impossible things before breakfast.” 

 

 Waking up on our second morning in Cochabamba, and Sweden feels a lifetime away. After arriving to La Paz and realising that all flights to Cochabamba were full (maybe because of semana santa/Easter celebrations), we took a 9 hr bus ride to our final destination. After 60 hrs of travelling, we reached La Tinkuna, the house belonging to our partner organisation. At first, I was kind of a culture shock for us to think that we would live here. We had to climb up concrete steps and along a roof to get to our room, with solid beds and no pillows. The toilet facilities were… let’s say basic. But, we were completely knocked out and fell asleep within an hour.

After a good nights sleep however, this seems like the best place one could imagine for writing our kind of thesis. We have a view of the cordillera, mountains, outside our window. We have our own room, with light, we have a basic kitchen, functioning toilets and a shower (although none of us have tried it yet). After breakfast at the local market, we had our first meeting with the Red Tinku Team.

Ramiro, our supervisor, started by asking us what we wanted to investigate. Then, he and the others started explaining what the situation is like today in Cochabamba regarding the water management. The municipal authority SEMAPA basically covers the north side, which is the rich part of town, and somewhat stretches towards the south, but nowhere near sufficiently. Therefore, neighbours in the south have gathered in small cooperatives and themselves financed wells, which they built together and pay for monthly. But the quality of the water is very poor, and therefore Darwin told us that in his community, they used water from SEMAPA to drink and cook, but as it was not enough water, they used salty water from a well to wash themselves, was clothes et cetera. So it seems like the further south, the less SEMAPA water. Where we live now, which is neither really south nor north, water is available three days a week for a couple of hours in the morning, which is when the tanks and tins are filled up. Then, what one can do is to try to use as little as possible and hope that it will last. Now there are ten people staying here, and I doubt that all of us could have a shower every day…

According to our informants, since the water war* in 2000, people have lost engagement and participation is dropping low in the cooperatives. Oscar Olivera used to be the profile of the resisting forces during the water war, but no one knows what he is up to now. La Coordinadora de defensa del agua y la vida* has dissolved, and there is no coordination of the initiatives to get water, no overall authority. There is a dam construction ongoing, but Ramiro seemed not to believe that it would be enough water for all. Much of the problem seemed to stem from rapid urbanisation, where the city and especially the south expanded faster than the municipal network could handle. The situation is not recent however, the SEMAPA network have been complemented by these local solutions for decades. When we asked about governmental involvement, they told us about MiAgua, which seems to be a less complicated way of getting water. We need to look more into that!

So much information, our heads felt like water melons! But wow, there is so much interesting things to look into, and Ramiro is a great supervisor who has many contacts we can make use of. This is gonna be great!

*The Water War of Cochabamba – in 2000, the municipal water system was privatised, which led to rising rates and cooperatively owned wells was turned over to the trans-national company Aguas del Tunari. The inhabitants of the city rioted, barricaded the city for several days and fought against the police and military until Aguas del Tunari was forced out of the country.

* La Coordinadora de defensa del agua y la vida – led by Oscar Olivera, this was the overall organisation behind the water war who fought for water to be a human right and not owned by foreign investors.

Wednesday, 27 March 2013

Off to a start...

“Begin at the beginning," the King said, very gravely, "and go on till you come to the end: then stop.” 


As every good philosopher knows, there can never be one beginning. Was it the day at university when Tess overheard me talking about field studies in Bolivia and I caught her with the phrase are you coming with me? or was it when I, in Lisbon, was sweating over the application for the scholarship to fund our research? Or when we booked the tickets? Maybe it was even earlier, when I was in sixth grade and started studying Spanish. Or we could start by yesterday, when we headed out in the light of dawn to leave Sweden behind for a while.

The plan was to go Copenhagen - London - Miami - La Paz - Cochabamba. It worked out fine until we got to Miami, where we were met by ridiculous cues to get through passport security. With a tight schedule, we kindly asked if there was another way and got a sweet shout back. Nope. The dude who took our fingerprints on the other hand was all jolly and surprised when we told him that Denmark and Sweden are two countries. He told us Swedes are all nice because they like heavy metal and essentially, you are just like us Americans!. Oh fabulous. Running, running, got to the gate which was empty. What? Oh that's right, I set my watch according to the air plane, which was still one hour behind. So we missed the flight. 

23 hours until the next flight to La Paz. Great. We tried to sleep on the floor for a while, but it was just too cold. So after chatting with my mum (it was 8am at home, 3am here) she convinced us to take into the hotel om the airport. Very good decision, which we were just too tired and irrational to make on our own.

So here we are now. Tess is sleeping and I'm awake. So many thoughts running through my head.

This country, where the most fundamental right is freedom. Where giving your fingerprints takes a good two hours, research is biased, state money is spent on war overseas, healthcare is for the rich, and the equality is among the lowest on earth. This idea of freedom... Where to be free is to carry a gun and drive a car, to be able to step on anyone to get ahead in life. I really don't want that kind of freedom.

Instead, I feel my longing back to that marvellous continent stronger than ever. So many memories from there that I've had to push aside to be able to lead a normal life in Sweden, that overwhelm me now. Freedom to me is having all I need strapped to my back and the road ahead, waiting, patiently. The driving force is my curiosity. I long for the language, the people, the Andes, the thin air, the green colour of the hills and trees. 

I am Alex and this is my wonderland.

What are we actually supposed to do?

“Do you think I've gone round the bend?"

"I'm afraid so. You're mad, bonkers, completely off your head. But I'll tell you a secret. All the best people are.” 


Here's some background info.

I started studying a Bsc in Environmental Science at Malmö University in 2009. After a year and a half, however, I could no longer resist the urge I felt to travel so I took a gap year to be on the road. My inner compass naturally guided me to South America, where I fell in love with life for real. I adored Bolivia, which is why I decided to apply for a scholarship so I could do research for my Bachelor's thesis there. 

When I was back at uni again, I took up where I left and hence ended up in a new class, where I met Tess. She is the most adorable and intelligent woman I've met so far, and its seems like she can put up with my company. We were awarded a scholarship to go to Japan together in August, where we attended a summer school at Hiroshima University on the theme of Global Environmental Sustainability. How awesome? 

Then we applied for the MFS grant, offered by Sida (Swedish International Development Cooperation Agency). The idea is to help students go abroad and conduct a minor field study on a topic that benefits the development of that country. So since I wanted to go back to Bolivia and Tess was eager to join me, that was our pick. We are both very interested in water related issues, and one very interesting case is the water wars of Cochabamba, where the water was privatised but the people were dissatisfied and rioted until they got their ownership back. This happened 13 years ago, but the access to potable water is still very poor. So what we want to investigate is how the local authority and other stakeholders (such as the small cooperatives that have formed to provide water for unconnected neighbourhoods) collaborate, and how this could be interpreted from a sustainable development perspective.

We will be staying with a local organisation in Cochabamba, called Red Tinku. They are young social activists engaged in the water distribution, and they have a sociocultural centre where they house volunteers and where we will be staying. Seems like a good way to get to know people and not just sit in an apartment and write all day!

We were supposed to be in Cochabamba by now, but due to the missed connection flight we are still in Miami. The plan however is to spend two months in Bolivia, mainly in Cochabamba, and get back home by the end of May.